The Device Charging Challenge
Between phones, GPS units, cameras, drones, headlamps, and the occasional laptop, the modern overlander carries a surprising amount of rechargeable gear. Keeping it all topped off without grid power takes planning — especially on multi-day trips where you can't just pull into a gas station and plug in.
I've tested every method below across extended trips in Utah, the Sierras, and Baja. Here's what actually works and what's not worth the hassle.
12V USB Outlets: The Foundation
The simplest and most reliable method. Wire USB outlets directly to your auxiliary battery (or use the vehicle's existing 12V ports if you're not worried about draining your starting battery).
Key considerations:
- USB-A vs USB-C: Install outlets with both. USB-A ports top out at 12W (5V/2.4A). USB-C PD ports can deliver 18–65W, enough to fast-charge a phone or slowly charge a laptop.
- Quality matters: Cheap no-name USB outlets have poor voltage regulation and can damage devices. BlueSea, Scanstrut, and Rigid Industries make marine/automotive-grade outlets that handle vibration and dust.
- Location: Mount outlets near where you'll actually use them — dash area for navigation devices, rear cargo area near the sleeping platform, and one exterior under an awning for camp use.
A dual USB-C outlet wired to your aux battery draws negligible power when not charging and handles 80% of your device charging needs.
Inverters: When You Need AC
Some devices — certain laptops, CPAP machines, camera battery chargers — need standard AC outlet power. That's where inverters come in.
Pure sine wave vs modified sine wave: Always go pure sine wave. Modified sine wave inverters are cheaper but produce a stepped waveform that can damage sensitive electronics, cause laptop chargers to buzz or overheat, and make CPAP machines unusable. A 300W pure sine wave inverter costs $50–80 and handles most device charging.
Sizing: Add up the wattage of everything you'll run simultaneously. A laptop charger draws 45–90W. A camera battery charger draws 10–20W. A CPAP draws 30–60W. A 300W inverter covers all of these with headroom. Don't buy a 2000W inverter for device charging — the standby draw alone wastes power.
Efficiency loss: Inverters waste 10–15% of the power they convert. If you can charge directly from 12V DC (via USB-C), always do that instead. Only use an inverter when there's no DC charging option.
Portable Solar Chargers
Small folding solar panels (10–28W) that charge devices directly via USB are tempting but limited. They work best as emergency backup, not primary charging.
The reality: A 21W USB solar panel delivers maybe 10–14W in real-world conditions. That's enough to trickle-charge a phone in about 3–4 hours of direct sun — if the panel stays aimed at the sun and nothing causes partial shade. Clouds cut output to near zero.
Direct USB solar panels also lack buffering — when a cloud passes, charging stops and some phones reset the charge negotiation, losing minutes of progress. A much better approach: charge a power bank from solar during the day, then charge your devices from the power bank at night.
For more capable solar setups that charge batteries (not just devices), see our best solar setups for overlanding.
Power Banks: Portable Buffer Storage
A quality power bank is the most underrated piece of overlanding electrical gear. Even with a full dual battery system, having a charged power bank means:
- You can charge devices in your tent without running cables to the vehicle
- You have backup power if your vehicle electrical system has issues
- You can hand it to someone in your group whose phone died
What to look for:
- Capacity: 20,000–26,800mAh covers 4–6 full phone charges or one full laptop charge
- USB-C PD output: 45W+ for laptop charging capability
- USB-C PD input: Fast recharging from your vehicle's USB-C outlet or solar setup
- Ruggedness: Water resistance and drop protection matter in overlanding conditions
The Nitecore NB20000 and Anker 737 are both excellent overlanding power banks — high capacity, USB-C PD, and built to handle rough use.
Portable Power Stations: The All-in-One Solution
Portable power stations like the Jackery Explorer 1000 bridge the gap between a power bank and a full dual battery system. They include a lithium battery, MPPT solar charge controller, pure sine wave inverter, and multiple outlet types in one unit.
The Jackery Explorer 1000 specifically offers 1002Wh of capacity — enough to charge a phone 50+ times, run a laptop for 8–10 hours, or power a CPAP machine for 2–3 nights. It charges via solar panels, car outlet, or wall AC.
The EcoFlow Delta 2 is another strong contender with 1024Wh capacity, faster solar input (500W max), and an expandable battery option. The Goal Zero Yeti 500X is a more portable option for lighter loads.
Where power stations excel: simplicity. No wiring, no fuse boxes, no crimping terminals. Where they fall short: they're a separate system from your vehicle, they have finite capacity with no alternator charging while driving, and they cost more per watt-hour than a DIY setup.
Battery Management: Making Power Last
The best charging setup in the world doesn't help if you drain devices unnecessarily. Some practical tips:
- Airplane mode at camp: Your phone searching for cell signal in a dead zone drains battery 3–5x faster than airplane mode. Turn on airplane mode and re-enable Wi-Fi for local devices if needed.
- Dim your screen: Display is the single biggest battery drain on phones and tablets. Use the lowest comfortable brightness.
- Download maps offline: Constantly rendering and downloading map tiles kills battery. Pre-download your route area in Gaia GPS, OnX, or Google Maps.
- Charge to 80%, not 100%: The last 20% of a charge cycle is the slowest and generates the most heat. Charging to 80% takes half the time of charging to 100% and is better for long-term battery health.
- Prioritize what matters: Phone (communication/navigation) and GPS (safety) get charged first. Camera and drone are luxuries — charge them when you have surplus power.
My Recommended Setup by Trip Type
Weekend trip: A 20,000mAh power bank and your vehicle's 12V port. No additional gear needed.
Week-long trip without vehicle electrical mods: A portable power station like the Jackery Explorer 1000, charged via car outlet while driving. Add a folding solar panel for extended stationary camping.
Dedicated overlanding rig: Dual battery system with USB-C outlets, a small pure sine wave inverter for AC devices, and rooftop solar. A power bank as backup for tent use.
Match your setup to how you actually travel. Overbuilding your electrical system adds weight, complexity, and cost. Start with the basics and add capability only when you've identified a real need.